508
FZUS51 KBOX 190804
CWFBOX

Coastal Waters Forecast for Massachusetts and Rhode Island
National Weather Service Boston/Norton MA
404 AM EDT Tue Aug 19 2025

Coastal waters from the Merrimack River MA to Watch Hill RI out
to 25 NM

ANZ200-192100-
404 AM EDT Tue Aug 19 2025

.Synopsis for Massachusetts and Rhode Island coastal waters...
High pres over Quebec gradually shifts east into the Maritimes this
week. All mariners are urged to closely follow the National
Hurricane Center Forecasts for the impacts of Major Hurricane
Erin...especially those with interests in the Atlantic. Although the
Major Hurricane will be passing well to the east of our waters later
this week...high seas are expected to enter our open waters from
large southerly swell.

$$

ANZ250-192100-
Coastal waters east of Ipswich Bay and the Stellwagen Bank
National Marine Sanctuary-
404 AM EDT Tue Aug 19 2025

.TODAY...NE winds 5 to 10 kt. Seas 2 to 3 ft. Wave Detail: NE
3 ft at 7 seconds and SE 2 ft at 12 seconds.
.TONIGHT...SE winds 5 to 10 kt. Seas 2 to 3 ft. Wave Detail: NE
3 ft at 7 seconds and SE 2 ft at 17 seconds.
.WED...SE winds 5 to 10 kt. Seas 2 to 3 ft. Wave Detail: E 2 ft
at 8 seconds and SE 2 ft at 14 seconds. A chance of showers in
the afternoon.
.WED NIGHT...E winds 10 to 15 kt. Gusts up to 20 kt after
midnight. Seas 2 to 4 ft. Wave Detail: E 3 ft at 5 seconds and SE
2 ft at 13 seconds. A chance of showers.
.THU...E winds 10 to 15 kt, becoming NE 15 to 20 kt in the
afternoon. Gusts up to 25 kt. Seas 3 to 5 ft. Wave Detail: E 4 ft
at 5 seconds and SE 2 ft at 15 seconds.
.THU NIGHT...NE winds 15 to 20 kt, increasing to 20 to 25 kt
after midnight. Gusts up to 30 kt. Seas 5 to 7 ft. Wave Detail: E
7 ft at 7 seconds and S 2 ft at 17 seconds.
.FRI...NE winds 20 to 25 kt with gusts up to 30 kt. Seas 6 to
9 ft.
.FRI NIGHT...N winds 15 to 20 kt with gusts up to 30 kt. Seas
7 to 10 ft.
.SAT...S winds 15 to 20 kt with gusts up to 30 kt. Seas 6 to
9 ft.
.SAT NIGHT...S winds 15 to 20 kt with gusts up to 30 kt. Seas
5 to 8 ft.

Seas are reported as significant wave height, which is the
average of the highest third of the waves. Individual wave
heights may be more than twice the significant wave height.

$$

ANZ251-192100-
Massachusetts Bay and Ipswich Bay-
404 AM EDT Tue Aug 19 2025

.TODAY...NE winds 5 to 10 kt. Seas around 2 ft. Wave Detail: NE
2 ft at 7 seconds and SE 1 foot at 12 seconds.
.TONIGHT...SE winds 5 to 10 kt. Seas around 2 ft. Wave Detail: E
2 ft at 6 seconds and SE 1 foot at 17 seconds.
.WED...E winds 5 to 10 kt. Seas around 2 ft. Wave Detail: E 2 ft
at 7 seconds and SE 2 ft at 16 seconds. A chance of showers in
the afternoon.
.WED NIGHT...E winds 10 to 15 kt. Seas around 2 ft. Wave Detail:
SE 2 ft at 4 seconds and S 2 ft at 14 seconds. A chance of
showers.
.THU AND THU NIGHT...NE winds 15 to 20 kt with gusts up to 25 kt.
Seas 2 to 4 ft. Wave Detail: E 4 ft at 6 seconds and S 2 ft at
16 seconds.
.FRI...NE winds 15 to 20 kt with gusts up to 30 kt. Seas 4 to
6 ft. Wave Detail: E 6 ft at 8 seconds and SE 2 ft at 19 seconds.
.FRI NIGHT AND SAT...NW winds 15 to 20 kt, becoming S. Gusts up
to 25 kt. Seas 5 to 7 ft.
.SAT NIGHT...S winds 15 to 20 kt with gusts up to 25 kt. Seas
4 to 6 ft.

Seas are reported as significant wave height, which is the
average of the highest third of the waves. Individual wave
heights may be more than twice the significant wave height.

$$

ANZ231-192100-
Cape Cod Bay-
404 AM EDT Tue Aug 19 2025

.TODAY...NE winds 5 to 10 kt. Seas around 2 ft. Wave Detail: N
2 ft at 5 seconds and SE 2 ft at 14 seconds.
.TONIGHT...SE winds 5 to 10 kt. Seas around 2 ft. Wave Detail: S
2 ft at 16 seconds and NE 1 foot at 3 seconds.
.WED...E winds 5 to 10 kt. Gusts up to 20 kt in the afternoon.
Seas around 2 ft. Wave Detail: S 2 ft at 15 seconds and E 1 foot
at 4 seconds. A chance of showers in the afternoon.
.WED NIGHT...E winds 10 to 15 kt. Gusts up to 20 kt after
midnight. Seas around 2 ft. Wave Detail: SE 2 ft at 3 seconds and
S 2 ft at 15 seconds. A chance of showers.
.THU...NE winds 15 to 20 kt with gusts up to 30 kt. Seas 2 to
4 ft. Wave Detail: NE 3 ft at 4 seconds and S 3 ft at 16 seconds.
.THU NIGHT...NE winds 20 to 25 kt with gusts up to 30 kt. Seas
3 to 5 ft. Wave Detail: NE 4 ft at 4 seconds and S 4 ft at
18 seconds.
.FRI...NE winds 20 to 25 kt with gusts up to 35 kt. Seas 4 to
6 ft.
.FRI NIGHT AND SAT...N winds 15 to 20 kt, becoming W. Gusts up to
30 kt. Seas 3 to 5 ft.
.SAT NIGHT...S winds 15 to 20 kt with gusts up to 25 kt. Seas
2 to 4 ft.

Seas are reported as significant wave height, which is the
average of the highest third of the waves. Individual wave
heights may be more than twice the significant wave height.

$$

ANZ254-192100-
Coastal waters from Provincetown MA to Chatham MA to Nantucket MA
out 20 nm-
404 AM EDT Tue Aug 19 2025

...SMALL CRAFT ADVISORY IN EFFECT THROUGH THURSDAY MORNING...

.TODAY...NE winds 5 to 10 kt. Seas 3 to 4 ft. Wave Detail: NE
3 ft at 7 seconds and S 3 ft at 15 seconds.
.TONIGHT...E winds 5 to 10 kt. Seas 3 to 5 ft. Wave Detail: S
4 ft at 15 seconds and NE 3 ft at 8 seconds.
.WED...E winds 5 to 10 kt. Seas 4 to 6 ft. Wave Detail: S 5 ft at
15 seconds and E 3 ft at 8 seconds. A chance of showers in the
afternoon.
.WED NIGHT...E winds 10 to 15 kt with gusts up to 20 kt. Seas
5 to 7 ft. Wave Detail: S 6 ft at 16 seconds and E 3 ft at
6 seconds. A chance of showers.
.THU...E winds 15 to 20 kt, becoming NE 20 to 25 kt in the
afternoon. Gusts up to 30 kt. Seas 5 to 8 ft, building to 7 to
10 ft in the afternoon. S and E of Nantucket, seas 8 to 11 ft,
building to 10 to 14 ft in the afternoon. Wave Detail: S 8 ft at
17 seconds and E 4 ft at 5 seconds, becoming S 9 ft at 17 seconds
and E 5 ft at 6 seconds.
.THU NIGHT...NE winds 20 to 25 kt, increasing to 25 to 30 kt
after midnight. Seas 8 to 11 ft, building to 9 to 13 ft after
midnight. S and E of Nantucket, seas 12 to 16 ft, building to
14 to 18 ft after midnight. Wave Detail: S 9 ft at 17 seconds and
E 7 ft at 6 seconds, becoming S 10 ft at 18 seconds and E 9 ft at
7 seconds.
.FRI...NE winds 25 to 30 kt with gusts up to 40 kt. Seas 10 to
14 ft.
.FRI NIGHT...N winds 20 to 25 kt with gusts up to 35 kt. Seas
9 to 12 ft.
.SAT...N winds 15 to 20 kt with gusts up to 30 kt. Seas 7 to
10 ft.
.SAT NIGHT...S winds 15 to 20 kt with gusts up to 30 kt. Seas
5 to 8 ft.

Seas are reported as significant wave height, which is the
average of the highest third of the waves. Individual wave
heights may be more than twice the significant wave height.

$$

ANZ255-192100-
Coastal Waters extending out to 25 nm South of Marthas Vineyard
and Nantucket-
404 AM EDT Tue Aug 19 2025

...SMALL CRAFT ADVISORY IN EFFECT THROUGH THURSDAY MORNING...

.TODAY...E winds 10 to 15 kt. Seas 3 to 5 ft. Wave Detail: NE
3 ft at 7 seconds and S 3 ft at 15 seconds.
.TONIGHT...E winds around 10 kt. Seas 4 to 6 ft. Wave Detail: S
5 ft at 15 seconds and E 3 ft at 9 seconds.
.WED...E winds 10 to 15 kt with gusts up to 20 kt. Seas 5 to
7 ft. Wave Detail: S 6 ft at 15 seconds and E 3 ft at 7 seconds.
A chance of showers in the afternoon.
.WED NIGHT...E winds 15 to 20 kt with gusts up to 25 kt. Seas
5 to 8 ft. Wave Detail: S 8 ft at 16 seconds and E 4 ft at
5 seconds. A chance of showers.
.THU...NE winds 20 to 25 kt with gusts up to 30 kt. Seas 7 to
10 ft, building to 9 to 13 ft in the afternoon. Wave Detail: S
10 ft at 17 seconds and E 5 ft at 6 seconds, becoming S 11 ft at
17 seconds and E 6 ft at 6 seconds. A chance of showers.
.THU NIGHT...NE winds 25 to 30 kt, increasing to 30 to 35 kt
after midnight. Seas 10 to 14 ft, building to 12 to 16 ft after
midnight. Wave Detail: S 12 ft at 17 seconds and E 7 ft at
7 seconds, becoming S 16 ft at 17 seconds and E 8 ft at
7 seconds.
.FRI...NE winds 25 to 35 kt with gusts up to 40 kt. Seas 10 to
14 ft.
.FRI NIGHT...N winds 25 to 30 kt with gusts up to 35 kt. Seas
7 to 10 ft.
.SAT...N winds 20 to 25 kt with gusts up to 30 kt. Seas 6 to
9 ft.
.SAT NIGHT...S winds 15 to 20 kt with gusts up to 25 kt. Seas
5 to 7 ft.

Seas are reported as significant wave height, which is the
average of the highest third of the waves. Individual wave
heights may be more than twice the significant wave height.

$$

ANZ256-192100-
Coastal Waters from Montauk NY to Marthas Vineyard extending out
to 20 nm South of Block Island-
404 AM EDT Tue Aug 19 2025

...SMALL CRAFT ADVISORY IN EFFECT THROUGH THURSDAY MORNING...

.TODAY...E winds 10 to 15 kt. Gusts up to 20 kt this morning.
Seas 4 to 5 ft. Wave Detail: S 4 ft at 15 seconds and E 3 ft at
5 seconds.
.TONIGHT...E winds around 10 kt. Seas 4 to 6 ft. Wave Detail: S
5 ft at 15 seconds and E 3 ft at 5 seconds.
.WED...E winds 10 to 15 kt with gusts up to 20 kt. Seas 6 to
7 ft. Wave Detail: S 6 ft at 15 seconds and E 4 ft at 5 seconds.
A chance of showers in the afternoon.
.WED NIGHT...E winds 15 to 20 kt with gusts up to 25 kt. Seas
6 to 9 ft. Wave Detail: E 7 ft at 6 seconds and S 7 ft at
15 seconds. A chance of showers. Patchy fog in the evening.
.THU...NE winds 20 to 25 kt with gusts up to 30 kt. Seas 8 to
11 ft, building to 10 to 12 ft in the afternoon. Wave Detail: S
9 ft at 17 seconds and E 8 ft at 7 seconds, becoming S 10 ft at
17 seconds and E 8 ft at 7 seconds. A chance of showers in the
morning.
.THU NIGHT...NE winds 25 to 30 kt with gusts up to 40 kt. Seas
11 to 15 ft, building to 13 to 17 ft after midnight. Wave Detail:
S 11 ft at 17 seconds and E 10 ft at 7 seconds, becoming S 14 ft
at 17 seconds and E 11 ft at 8 seconds.
.FRI...NE winds 25 to 35 kt with gusts up to 40 kt. Seas 11 to
15 ft.
.FRI NIGHT...N winds 20 to 25 kt with gusts up to 35 kt. Seas
8 to 11 ft.
.SAT...W winds 15 to 20 kt with gusts up to 25 kt. Seas 6 to
9 ft.
.SAT NIGHT...S winds 15 to 20 kt with gusts up to 25 kt. Seas
5 to 7 ft.

Seas are reported as significant wave height, which is the
average of the highest third of the waves. Individual wave
heights may be more than twice the significant wave height.

$$

ANZ232-192100-
Nantucket Sound-
404 AM EDT Tue Aug 19 2025

.TODAY...NE winds around 10 kt. Seas 2 to 3 ft. Wave Detail: NE
2 ft at 4 seconds and S 1 foot at 14 seconds.
.TONIGHT...E winds 5 to 10 kt. Seas 2 to 3 ft. Wave Detail: E
2 ft at 5 seconds and S 2 ft at 16 seconds.
.WED...E winds 10 to 15 kt. Gusts up to 20 kt in the afternoon.
Seas 2 to 4 ft. Wave Detail: E 2 ft at 5 seconds and S 2 ft at
15 seconds. A chance of showers in the afternoon.
.WED NIGHT...E winds 15 to 20 kt. Seas 2 to 4 ft. Wave Detail: E
3 ft at 4 seconds and S 3 ft at 16 seconds. A chance of showers.
.THU...E winds 15 to 20 kt, becoming NE 20 to 25 kt in the
afternoon. Gusts up to 30 kt. Seas 4 to 6 ft. Wave Detail: E 4 ft
at 4 seconds and S 3 ft at 17 seconds.
.THU NIGHT...NE winds 25 to 30 kt with gusts up to 35 kt. Seas
5 to 8 ft. Wave Detail: NE 6 ft at 6 seconds and S 3 ft at
17 seconds.
.FRI...NE winds 25 to 30 kt with gusts up to 35 kt. Seas 5 to
8 ft.
.FRI NIGHT AND SAT...N winds 20 to 25 kt, becoming W. Gusts up to
35 kt. Seas 4 to 6 ft.
.SAT NIGHT...S winds 15 to 20 kt with gusts up to 25 kt. Seas
3 to 5 ft.

Seas are reported as significant wave height, which is the
average of the highest third of the waves. Individual wave
heights may be more than twice the significant wave height.

$$

ANZ233-192100-
Vineyard Sound-
404 AM EDT Tue Aug 19 2025

.TODAY...E winds around 10 kt. Seas 2 to 3 ft. Wave Detail: E
2 ft at 4 seconds and S 2 ft at 15 seconds.
.TONIGHT...E winds 5 to 10 kt. Seas 2 to 4 ft. Wave Detail: S
3 ft at 16 seconds and E 2 ft at 4 seconds.
.WED...E winds 10 to 15 kt. Gusts up to 20 kt in the afternoon.
Seas 2 to 4 ft. Wave Detail: S 4 ft at 15 seconds and E 2 ft at
4 seconds. A chance of showers in the afternoon.
.WED NIGHT...E winds 15 to 20 kt. Seas 3 to 5 ft. Wave Detail: S
4 ft at 16 seconds and E 3 ft at 4 seconds. A chance of showers.
.THU...NE winds 15 to 20 kt, increasing to 20 to 25 kt in the
afternoon. Gusts up to 30 kt. Seas 5 to 7 ft. Wave Detail: S 6 ft
at 17 seconds and E 3 ft at 4 seconds.
.THU NIGHT...NE winds 20 to 25 kt, increasing to 25 to 30 kt
after midnight. Seas 5 to 8 ft, building to 7 to 10 ft after
midnight. Wave Detail: S 6 ft at 17 seconds and NE 4 ft at
5 seconds, becoming S 7 ft at 17 seconds and NE 4 ft at
5 seconds.
.FRI...NE winds 25 to 30 kt with gusts up to 35 kt. Seas 6 to
9 ft.
.FRI NIGHT...N winds 20 to 25 kt with gusts up to 30 kt. Seas
4 to 6 ft.
.SAT AND SAT NIGHT...W winds 15 to 20 kt, becoming S. Gusts up to
25 kt. Seas 3 to 4 ft.

Seas are reported as significant wave height, which is the
average of the highest third of the waves. Individual wave
heights may be more than twice the significant wave height.

$$

ANZ234-192100-
Buzzards Bay-
404 AM EDT Tue Aug 19 2025

.TODAY...NE winds around 10 kt, becoming E this afternoon. Seas
around 2 ft. Wave Detail: S 2 ft at 15 seconds and NE 1 foot at
2 seconds.
.TONIGHT...E winds 5 to 10 kt. Seas 2 to 3 ft. Wave Detail: E
2 ft at 4 seconds and S 2 ft at 16 seconds.
.WED...E winds 10 to 15 kt. Gusts up to 20 kt in the afternoon.
Seas 2 to 3 ft. Wave Detail: S 3 ft at 15 seconds and E 2 ft at
3 seconds. A chance of showers in the afternoon.
.WED NIGHT...E winds around 15 kt with gusts up to 20 kt. Seas
2 to 4 ft. Wave Detail: S 3 ft at 16 seconds and E 2 ft at
3 seconds. A chance of showers.
.THU AND THU NIGHT...NE winds 20 to 25 kt with gusts up to 30 kt.
Seas 4 to 6 ft. Wave Detail: S 5 ft at 17 seconds and NE 4 ft at
4 seconds.
.FRI...NE winds 20 to 25 kt with gusts up to 35 kt. Seas 4 to
6 ft. Wave Detail: S 5 ft at 17 seconds and N 4 ft at 4 seconds.
.FRI NIGHT AND SAT...N winds 20 to 25 kt, becoming SW 15 to
20 kt. Gusts up to 30 kt. Seas 3 to 5 ft.
.SAT NIGHT...S winds 15 to 20 kt with gusts up to 25 kt. Seas
2 to 4 ft.

Seas are reported as significant wave height, which is the
average of the highest third of the waves. Individual wave
heights may be more than twice the significant wave height.

$$

ANZ235-192100-
Rhode Island Sound-
404 AM EDT Tue Aug 19 2025

.TODAY...NE winds around 10 kt, becoming E this afternoon. Seas
2 to 4 ft. Wave Detail: SE 3 ft at 15 seconds and E 2 ft at
4 seconds.
.TONIGHT...E winds around 10 kt. Seas 3 to 5 ft. Wave Detail: S
5 ft at 15 seconds and E 3 ft at 4 seconds.
.WED...E winds 10 to 15 kt. Gusts up to 20 kt in the afternoon.
Seas 4 to 6 ft. Wave Detail: S 5 ft at 14 seconds and E 3 ft at
4 seconds. Patchy fog in the afternoon. A chance of showers in
the afternoon.
.WED NIGHT...E winds 15 to 20 kt. Seas 5 to 7 ft. Wave Detail: S
6 ft at 15 seconds and SE 5 ft at 6 seconds. A chance of showers.
Patchy fog in the evening.
.THU...NE winds 20 to 25 kt with gusts up to 30 kt. Seas 7 to
10 ft. Wave Detail: S 10 ft at 17 seconds and E 6 ft at
7 seconds. A chance of showers in the morning.
.THU NIGHT...NE winds 25 to 30 kt. Seas 8 to 11 ft, building to
9 to 13 ft after midnight. Wave Detail: S 11 ft at 17 seconds and
E 6 ft at 6 seconds, becoming S 13 ft at 17 seconds and NE 6 ft
at 6 seconds.
.FRI...NE winds 25 to 30 kt with gusts up to 35 kt. Seas 9 to
12 ft.
.FRI NIGHT...N winds 20 to 25 kt with gusts up to 30 kt. Seas
5 to 7 ft.
.SAT...SW winds 15 to 20 kt with gusts up to 25 kt. Seas 4 to
6 ft.
.SAT NIGHT...S winds 15 to 20 kt with gusts up to 25 kt. Seas
3 to 5 ft.

Seas are reported as significant wave height, which is the
average of the highest third of the waves. Individual wave
heights may be more than twice the significant wave height.

$$

ANZ237-192100-
Block Island Sound-
404 AM EDT Tue Aug 19 2025

.TODAY...E winds around 10 kt. Seas 3 to 4 ft. Wave Detail: E
3 ft at 5 seconds and SE 3 ft at 15 seconds.
.TONIGHT...E winds around 10 kt. Seas 3 to 5 ft. Wave Detail: S
4 ft at 15 seconds and E 3 ft at 5 seconds.
.WED...E winds 10 to 15 kt. Gusts up to 20 kt in the afternoon.
Seas 4 to 6 ft. Wave Detail: S 5 ft at 14 seconds and E 3 ft at
5 seconds. Patchy fog in the afternoon. A chance of showers in
the afternoon.
.WED NIGHT...E winds 15 to 20 kt with gusts up to 25 kt. Seas
5 to 7 ft. Wave Detail: S 6 ft at 15 seconds and E 5 ft at
6 seconds. A chance of showers. Patchy fog in the evening.
.THU...NE winds 15 to 20 kt, increasing to 20 to 25 kt in the
afternoon. Gusts up to 30 kt. Seas 7 to 10 ft. Wave Detail: S
9 ft at 17 seconds and E 6 ft at 7 seconds. A chance of showers
in the morning.
.THU NIGHT...NE winds 20 to 25 kt with gusts up to 30 kt. Seas
8 to 11 ft, building to 9 to 13 ft after midnight. Wave Detail: S
10 ft at 17 seconds and E 6 ft at 7 seconds, becoming S 12 ft at
17 seconds and E 7 ft at 7 seconds.
.FRI...NE winds 20 to 25 kt with gusts up to 35 kt. Seas 9 to
12 ft.
.FRI NIGHT...N winds 15 to 20 kt with gusts up to 30 kt. Seas
6 to 9 ft.
.SAT...SW winds around 15 kt with gusts up to 20 kt. Seas 5 to
7 ft.
.SAT NIGHT...S winds 10 to 15 kt with gusts up to 20 kt. Seas
4 to 6 ft.

Seas are reported as significant wave height, which is the
average of the highest third of the waves. Individual wave
heights may be more than twice the significant wave height.

$$

ANZ230-192100-
Boston Harbor-
404 AM EDT Tue Aug 19 2025

.TODAY...NE winds 5 to 10 kt, becoming E this afternoon. Waves
1 foot or less, then around 2 ft this afternoon.
.TONIGHT...SE winds 5 to 10 kt. Waves 1 foot or less.
.WED...E winds 5 to 10 kt. Waves 1 foot or less, then around 2 ft
in the afternoon. Patchy fog in the afternoon. A chance of
showers in the afternoon.
.WED NIGHT...E winds around 10 kt. Waves around 2 ft in the
evening, then 1 foot or less. A chance of showers.
.THU AND THU NIGHT...NE winds 15 to 20 kt. Waves 2 to 3 ft.
.FRI THROUGH SAT NIGHT...S winds 15 to 20 kt with gusts up to
25 kt. Waves 2 to 3 ft.

Seas are reported as significant wave height, which is the
average of the highest third of the waves. Individual wave
heights may be more than twice the significant wave height.

$$

ANZ236-192100-
Narragansett Bay-
404 AM EDT Tue Aug 19 2025

.TODAY...NE winds 5 to 10 kt, becoming E this afternoon. Waves
2 to 3 ft.
.TONIGHT...E winds 5 to 10 kt. Waves 2 to 4 ft.
.WED...E winds 5 to 10 kt, increasing to 10 to 15 kt with gusts
up to 20 kt in the afternoon. Waves 2 to 4 ft. Patchy fog in the
afternoon. A chance of showers in the afternoon.
.WED NIGHT...E winds 10 to 15 kt with gusts up to 20 kt. Waves
2 to 3 ft. A chance of showers. Patchy fog in the evening.
.THU AND THU NIGHT...NE winds 15 to 20 kt with gusts up to 25 kt.
Waves 2 to 3 ft, except 5 to 7 ft at the bay entrance.
.FRI THROUGH SAT NIGHT...S winds 15 to 20 kt with gusts up to
30 kt. Waves 2 to 4 ft, except 5 to 7 ft at the bay entrance.

Seas are reported as significant wave height, which is the
average of the highest third of the waves. Individual wave
heights may be more than twice the significant wave height.

$$

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