Coastal Waters Forecast
Issued by NWS Boston, MA

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FZUS51 KBOX 111204
CWFBOX

Coastal Waters Forecast for Massachusetts and Rhode Island
National Weather Service Boston/Norton MA
704 AM EST Tue Nov 11 2025

Coastal waters from the Merrimack River MA to Watch Hill RI out
to 25 NM

ANZ200-120100-
704 AM EST Tue Nov 11 2025

.Synopsis for Massachusetts and Rhode Island coastal waters...
Strong cold front passes through the region and over the waters
tonight with a high chance for W gale force wind gusts on Tue.
Another cold front will approach and cross the waters later Wed into
Thu.

$$

ANZ250-120100-
Coastal waters east of Ipswich Bay and the Stellwagen Bank
National Marine Sanctuary-
704 AM EST Tue Nov 11 2025

...GALE WARNING IN EFFECT THROUGH WEDNESDAY MORNING...

.TODAY...W winds 20 to 25 kt. Gusts up to 30 kt, increasing to
40 kt this afternoon. Seas 5 to 7 ft. Wave Detail: W 6 ft at
5 seconds and SE 4 ft at 8 seconds. A slight chance of showers
and flurries this afternoon.
.TONIGHT...W winds 25 to 30 kt, diminishing to 20 to 25 kt after
midnight. Gusts up to 40 kt. Seas 5 to 8 ft. Wave Detail: W 7 ft
at 6 seconds and SE 3 ft at 10 seconds.
.WED...SW winds 15 to 20 kt with gusts up to 25 kt. Seas 4 to
6 ft, subsiding to 3 to 4 ft in the afternoon. Wave Detail: SW
5 ft at 5 seconds and SE 2 ft at 11 seconds, becoming SW 4 ft at
5 seconds and SE 2 ft at 12 seconds.
.WED NIGHT...W winds 10 to 15 kt with gusts up to 20 kt. Seas
2 to 4 ft. Wave Detail: W 3 ft at 4 seconds and SE 1 foot at
11 seconds.
.THU...W winds 10 to 15 kt, increasing to 15 to 20 kt in the
afternoon. Seas 2 to 4 ft. Wave Detail: W 3 ft at 4 seconds and
SE 1 foot at 9 seconds.
.THU NIGHT...NW winds 15 to 20 kt with gusts up to 25 kt. Seas
3 to 4 ft. Wave Detail: NW 4 ft at 4 seconds and SE 1 foot at
9 seconds. A chance of showers in the evening.
.FRI THROUGH SAT...NW winds 15 to 20 kt with gusts up to 25 kt.
Seas 3 to 4 ft.
.SAT NIGHT...NW winds 10 to 15 kt with gusts up to 20 kt. Seas
2 to 3 ft. A chance of rain.

Seas are reported as significant wave height, which is the
average of the highest third of the waves. Individual wave
heights may be more than twice the significant wave height.

$$

ANZ251-120100-
Massachusetts Bay and Ipswich Bay-
704 AM EST Tue Nov 11 2025

...GALE WARNING IN EFFECT THROUGH WEDNESDAY MORNING...

.TODAY...W winds 20 to 25 kt. Gusts up to 25 kt, increasing to
35 kt this afternoon. Seas 3 to 4 ft. Wave Detail: W 4 ft at
4 seconds and E 3 ft at 8 seconds. A slight chance of flurries
this afternoon.
.TONIGHT...W winds 25 to 30 kt with gusts up to 40 kt,
diminishing to 20 to 25 kt with gusts up to 30 kt after midnight.
Seas 3 to 4 ft. Wave Detail: W 4 ft at 4 seconds and E 2 ft at
9 seconds.
.WED...SW winds 15 to 20 kt, diminishing to 10 to 15 kt in the
afternoon. Gusts up to 25 kt. Seas 2 to 3 ft. Wave Detail: SW
3 ft at 4 seconds and E 1 foot at 12 seconds.
.WED NIGHT...W winds 10 to 15 kt. Gusts up to 20 kt in the
evening. Seas around 2 ft. Wave Detail: W 2 ft at 3 seconds and E
1 foot at 12 seconds.
.THU AND THU NIGHT...NW winds 15 to 20 kt. Seas 2 to 3 ft. Wave
Detail: NW 3 ft at 4 seconds and SE 1 foot at 9 seconds.
.FRI THROUGH SAT...NW winds 15 to 20 kt. Seas 2 to 3 ft. Wave
Detail: N 3 ft at 5 seconds.
.SAT NIGHT...NW winds 15 to 20 kt. Seas 2 to 3 ft. A chance of
rain.

Seas are reported as significant wave height, which is the
average of the highest third of the waves. Individual wave
heights may be more than twice the significant wave height.

$$

ANZ231-120100-
Cape Cod Bay-
704 AM EST Tue Nov 11 2025

...GALE WARNING IN EFFECT THROUGH WEDNESDAY MORNING...

.TODAY...W winds 15 to 20 kt with gusts up to 25 kt, increasing
to 20 to 25 kt with gusts up to 40 kt this afternoon. Seas 3 to
5 ft. Wave Detail: W 4 ft at 4 seconds and SE 2 ft at 7 seconds.
A slight chance of showers and flurries this afternoon.
.TONIGHT...W winds 25 to 30 kt, diminishing to 20 to 25 kt after
midnight. Gusts up to 40 kt. Seas 3 to 4 ft. Wave Detail: W 4 ft
at 5 seconds and S 2 ft at 9 seconds.
.WED...SW winds 15 to 20 kt with gusts up to 25 kt. Seas 2 to
4 ft. Wave Detail: W 3 ft at 4 seconds and S 2 ft at 10 seconds.
A chance of showers in the morning.
.WED NIGHT...W winds 10 to 15 kt. Gusts up to 20 kt in the
evening. Seas around 2 ft. Wave Detail: W 2 ft at 3 seconds and S
1 foot at 10 seconds.
.THU AND THU NIGHT...NW winds 15 to 20 kt with gusts up to 25 kt.
Seas 2 to 3 ft. Wave Detail: NW 3 ft at 4 seconds and S 1 foot at
10 seconds.
.FRI THROUGH SAT...NW winds 15 to 20 kt with gusts up to 25 kt.
Seas 2 to 3 ft. Wave Detail: N 3 ft at 6 seconds.
.SAT NIGHT...NW winds 10 to 15 kt with gusts up to 20 kt. Seas
2 to 3 ft. A chance of rain.

Seas are reported as significant wave height, which is the
average of the highest third of the waves. Individual wave
heights may be more than twice the significant wave height.

$$

ANZ254-120100-
Coastal waters from Provincetown MA to Chatham MA to Nantucket MA
out 20 nm-
704 AM EST Tue Nov 11 2025

...GALE WARNING IN EFFECT THROUGH WEDNESDAY MORNING...

.TODAY...W winds 20 to 25 kt with gusts up to 30 kt, increasing
to 25 to 30 kt with gusts up to 40 kt this afternoon. Seas 5 to
7 ft, building to 6 to 9 ft this afternoon. Wave Detail: S 6 ft
at 9 seconds and W 4 ft at 5 seconds, becoming W 6 ft at
5 seconds and S 5 ft at 9 seconds. A slight chance of showers and
flurries this afternoon.
.TONIGHT...W winds 25 to 30 kt with gusts up to 40 kt. Seas 6 to
9 ft, except 9 to 13 ft S and E of Nantucket. Wave Detail: W 7 ft
at 6 seconds and S 4 ft at 9 seconds.
.WED...W winds 20 to 25 kt, diminishing to 15 to 20 kt in the
afternoon. Gusts up to 30 kt. Seas 5 to 7 ft. Wave Detail: W 5 ft
at 6 seconds and S 5 ft at 11 seconds. A chance of showers.
.WED NIGHT...W winds 15 to 20 kt, diminishing to 10 to 15 kt
after midnight. Gusts up to 25 kt. Seas 4 to 6 ft. Wave Detail: S
5 ft at 10 seconds and W 3 ft at 5 seconds.
.THU...W winds 10 to 15 kt, increasing to 15 to 20 kt in the
afternoon. Gusts up to 25 kt. Seas 4 to 6 ft. Wave Detail: S 4 ft
at 10 seconds and NW 3 ft at 4 seconds. A chance of showers in
the afternoon.
.THU NIGHT...NW winds 20 to 25 kt. Seas 5 to 7 ft. Wave Detail:
NW 5 ft at 5 seconds and S 2 ft at 9 seconds. A chance of showers
in the evening.
.FRI...NW winds 20 to 25 kt. Seas 4 to 6 ft. A chance of showers.
.FRI NIGHT...NW winds 15 to 20 kt. Seas 3 to 4 ft. A chance of
showers.
.SAT...NW winds 15 to 20 kt. Seas 3 to 4 ft.
.SAT NIGHT...NW winds around 15 kt with gusts up to 20 kt. Seas
3 to 4 ft. A chance of rain.

Seas are reported as significant wave height, which is the
average of the highest third of the waves. Individual wave
heights may be more than twice the significant wave height.

$$

ANZ255-120100-
Coastal Waters extending out to 25 nm South of Marthas Vineyard
and Nantucket-
704 AM EST Tue Nov 11 2025

...GALE WARNING IN EFFECT THROUGH WEDNESDAY MORNING...

.TODAY...W winds 25 to 35 kt with gusts up to 40 kt. Seas 7 to
10 ft. Wave Detail: SW 10 ft at 8 seconds and S 6 ft at
10 seconds. A chance of showers this afternoon.
.TONIGHT...W winds 30 to 40 kt, diminishing to 25 to 35 kt after
midnight. Seas 9 to 12 ft, subsiding to 7 to 10 ft after
midnight. Wave Detail: W 12 ft at 9 seconds and S 3 ft at
9 seconds, becoming W 10 ft at 9 seconds and S 3 ft at
10 seconds.
.WED...SW winds 25 to 30 kt, becoming W 20 to 25 kt in the
afternoon. Seas 6 to 9 ft. Wave Detail: SW 9 ft at 9 seconds and
S 9 ft at 11 seconds. A chance of showers.
.WED NIGHT...W winds 20 to 25 kt, diminishing to 15 to 20 kt
after midnight. Gusts up to 30 kt. Seas 5 to 8 ft. Wave Detail:
SW 8 ft at 9 seconds and W 1 foot at 5 seconds.
.THU...W winds 15 to 20 kt, increasing to 20 to 25 kt in the
afternoon. Seas 5 to 8 ft. Wave Detail: SW 7 ft at 9 seconds. A
chance of showers in the afternoon.
.THU NIGHT...NW winds 25 to 30 kt. Seas 6 to 9 ft. Wave Detail: W
8 ft at 8 seconds and SW 3 ft at 9 seconds.
.FRI...NW winds 20 to 25 kt. Seas 5 to 7 ft.
.FRI NIGHT AND SAT...NW winds 20 to 25 kt, diminishing to 15 to
20 kt. Seas 3 to 5 ft.
.SAT NIGHT...NW winds 15 to 20 kt. Seas 2 to 3 ft. A chance of
rain.

Seas are reported as significant wave height, which is the
average of the highest third of the waves. Individual wave
heights may be more than twice the significant wave height.

$$

ANZ256-120100-
Coastal Waters from Montauk NY to Marthas Vineyard extending out
to 20 nm South of Block Island-
704 AM EST Tue Nov 11 2025

...GALE WARNING IN EFFECT THROUGH WEDNESDAY MORNING...

.TODAY...W winds 25 to 35 kt with gusts up to 40 kt. Seas 7 to
8 ft, building to 8 to 11 ft this afternoon. Wave Detail: W 8 ft
at 7 seconds and S 5 ft at 9 seconds, becoming W 11 ft at
8 seconds and S 4 ft at 9 seconds. A chance of showers this
afternoon.
.TONIGHT...W winds 30 to 40 kt, diminishing to 25 to 30 kt after
midnight. Seas 9 to 12 ft, subsiding to 7 to 10 ft after
midnight. Wave Detail: W 12 ft at 9 seconds and S 4 ft at
10 seconds, becoming W 10 ft at 9 seconds and S 5 ft at
10 seconds.
.WED...W winds 20 to 25 kt with gusts up to 30 kt. Seas 6 to
8 ft. Wave Detail: SW 8 ft at 8 seconds and S 8 ft at 10 seconds.
A chance of showers in the morning.
.WED NIGHT...W winds 20 to 25 kt with gusts up to 30 kt. Seas
6 to 7 ft. Wave Detail: SW 7 ft at 9 seconds and W 2 ft at
5 seconds.
.THU AND THU NIGHT...NW winds 25 to 30 kt. Seas 5 to 8 ft. Wave
Detail: W 7 ft at 7 seconds and SW 7 ft at 9 seconds.
.FRI...NW winds 20 to 25 kt. Seas 4 to 6 ft. Wave Detail: NW 6 ft
at 6 seconds and SE 1 foot at 10 seconds.
.FRI NIGHT...NW winds 20 to 25 kt. Seas 3 to 5 ft.
.SAT...NW winds 15 to 20 kt with gusts up to 25 kt. Seas 2 to
4 ft.
.SAT NIGHT...NW winds 15 to 20 kt. Seas 2 to 3 ft. A chance of
rain.

Seas are reported as significant wave height, which is the
average of the highest third of the waves. Individual wave
heights may be more than twice the significant wave height.

$$

ANZ232-120100-
Nantucket Sound-
704 AM EST Tue Nov 11 2025

...GALE WARNING IN EFFECT THROUGH WEDNESDAY MORNING...

.TODAY...W winds 20 to 25 kt with gusts up to 30 kt, increasing
to 25 to 30 kt with gusts up to 40 kt this afternoon. Seas 4 to
6 ft. Wave Detail: W 5 ft at 5 seconds and SE 2 ft at 9 seconds.
A slight chance of showers this afternoon.
.TONIGHT...W winds 30 to 35 kt, diminishing to 25 to 30 kt after
midnight. Seas 4 to 6 ft. Wave Detail: W 6 ft at 5 seconds and S
2 ft at 10 seconds.
.WED...W winds 20 to 25 kt with gusts up to 30 kt. Seas 3 to
4 ft. Wave Detail: W 4 ft at 5 seconds and S 3 ft at 10 seconds.
A chance of showers.
.WED NIGHT...W winds 15 to 20 kt with gusts up to 25 kt. Seas
2 to 4 ft. Wave Detail: W 3 ft at 4 seconds and S 3 ft at
10 seconds.
.THU AND THU NIGHT...NW winds 20 to 25 kt. Seas 3 to 5 ft. Wave
Detail: W 4 ft at 4 seconds and SW 2 ft at 9 seconds.
.FRI THROUGH SAT...NW winds 20 to 25 kt. Seas 2 to 4 ft. Wave
Detail: W 4 ft at 4 seconds and S 1 foot at 9 seconds.
.SAT NIGHT...NW winds 15 to 20 kt. Seas around 2 ft. A chance of
rain.

Seas are reported as significant wave height, which is the
average of the highest third of the waves. Individual wave
heights may be more than twice the significant wave height.

$$

ANZ233-120100-
Vineyard Sound-
704 AM EST Tue Nov 11 2025

...GALE WARNING IN EFFECT THROUGH WEDNESDAY MORNING...

.TODAY...W winds 20 to 25 kt with gusts up to 30 kt, increasing
to 25 to 30 kt with gusts up to 40 kt this afternoon. Seas 4 to
6 ft. Wave Detail: SW 6 ft at 7 seconds and S 4 ft at 9 seconds.
A slight chance of showers this afternoon.
.TONIGHT...W winds 25 to 30 kt with gusts up to 40 kt. Seas 5 to
7 ft. Wave Detail: W 7 ft at 7 seconds and SW 5 ft at 9 seconds.
.WED...W winds 20 to 25 kt with gusts up to 30 kt. Seas 3 to
5 ft. Wave Detail: SW 5 ft at 9 seconds and SW 4 ft at 6 seconds.
A chance of showers.
.WED NIGHT...W winds 15 to 20 kt with gusts up to 25 kt. Seas
3 to 5 ft. Wave Detail: SW 5 ft at 9 seconds and W 2 ft at
5 seconds.
.THU AND THU NIGHT...NW winds 20 to 25 kt. Seas 3 to 5 ft. Wave
Detail: W 4 ft at 7 seconds and SW 4 ft at 9 seconds.
.FRI AND FRI NIGHT...NW winds 15 to 20 kt with gusts up to 25 kt.
Seas 2 to 4 ft. Wave Detail: W 4 ft at 6 seconds.
.SAT...NW winds 10 to 15 kt with gusts up to 20 kt. Seas around
2 ft.
.SAT NIGHT...NW winds 10 to 15 kt. Seas around 2 ft. A chance of
rain.

Seas are reported as significant wave height, which is the
average of the highest third of the waves. Individual wave
heights may be more than twice the significant wave height.

$$

ANZ234-120100-
Buzzards Bay-
704 AM EST Tue Nov 11 2025

...GALE WARNING IN EFFECT THROUGH WEDNESDAY MORNING...

.TODAY...W winds 20 to 25 kt with gusts up to 30 kt, increasing
to 25 to 30 kt with gusts up to 40 kt this afternoon. Seas 3 to
5 ft. Wave Detail: SW 5 ft at 6 seconds and S 3 ft at 9 seconds.
A slight chance of showers and flurries this afternoon.
.TONIGHT...W winds 25 to 30 kt with gusts up to 40 kt,
diminishing to 20 to 25 kt with gusts up to 30 kt after midnight.
Seas 4 to 6 ft. Wave Detail: W 5 ft at 6 seconds and SW 5 ft at
9 seconds.
.WED...W winds 20 to 25 kt, diminishing to 15 to 20 kt in the
afternoon. Seas 3 to 4 ft. Wave Detail: SW 4 ft at 6 seconds and
SW 4 ft at 9 seconds. A chance of showers in the morning.
.WED NIGHT...W winds 10 to 15 kt. Gusts up to 20 kt in the
evening. Seas 2 to 4 ft. Wave Detail: SW 4 ft at 9 seconds and W
2 ft at 5 seconds.
.THU AND THU NIGHT...NW winds 15 to 20 kt with gusts up to 25 kt.
Seas 2 to 4 ft. Wave Detail: SW 4 ft at 9 seconds and W 3 ft at
6 seconds.
.FRI THROUGH SAT...NW winds 15 to 20 kt. Seas 2 to 3 ft. Wave
Detail: W 3 ft at 6 seconds and S 1 foot at 9 seconds.
.SAT NIGHT...NW winds 10 to 15 kt with gusts up to 20 kt. Seas
around 2 ft. A chance of rain.

Seas are reported as significant wave height, which is the
average of the highest third of the waves. Individual wave
heights may be more than twice the significant wave height.

$$

ANZ235-120100-
Rhode Island Sound-
704 AM EST Tue Nov 11 2025

...GALE WARNING IN EFFECT THROUGH WEDNESDAY MORNING...

.TODAY...W winds 20 to 25 kt with gusts up to 30 kt, increasing
to 25 to 30 kt with gusts up to 40 kt this afternoon. Seas 5 to
7 ft, building to 6 to 9 ft this afternoon. Wave Detail: W 6 ft
at 7 seconds and S 6 ft at 9 seconds, becoming W 7 ft at
7 seconds and S 7 ft at 9 seconds. A slight chance of showers
this afternoon.
.TONIGHT...W winds 25 to 30 kt with gusts up to 40 kt. Seas 6 to
9 ft, subsiding to 5 to 7 ft after midnight. Wave Detail: SW 8 ft
at 9 seconds and W 7 ft at 7 seconds, becoming SW 7 ft at
9 seconds and W 5 ft at 6 seconds.
.WED...W winds 20 to 25 kt with gusts up to 30 kt. Seas 4 to
6 ft. Wave Detail: SW 6 ft at 9 seconds and SW 5 ft at 6 seconds.
.WED NIGHT...W winds 15 to 20 kt with gusts up to 25 kt. Seas
4 to 6 ft. Wave Detail: SW 6 ft at 9 seconds and W 2 ft at
5 seconds.
.THU AND THU NIGHT...NW winds 20 to 25 kt. Seas 4 to 6 ft. Wave
Detail: SW 6 ft at 9 seconds and W 5 ft at 6 seconds.
.FRI THROUGH SAT...NW winds 15 to 20 kt with gusts up to 25 kt.
Seas 2 to 4 ft. Wave Detail: W 4 ft at 6 seconds and S 1 foot at
10 seconds.
.SAT NIGHT...NW winds around 15 kt. Seas around 2 ft. A chance of
rain.

Seas are reported as significant wave height, which is the
average of the highest third of the waves. Individual wave
heights may be more than twice the significant wave height.

$$

ANZ237-120100-
Block Island Sound-
704 AM EST Tue Nov 11 2025

...GALE WARNING IN EFFECT THROUGH WEDNESDAY MORNING...

.TODAY...W winds 20 to 25 kt with gusts up to 30 kt, increasing
to 25 to 30 kt with gusts up to 40 kt this afternoon. Seas 4 to
6 ft, building to 5 to 8 ft this afternoon. Wave Detail: W 5 ft
at 5 seconds and S 4 ft at 9 seconds, becoming W 6 ft at
5 seconds and S 4 ft at 9 seconds. A slight chance of showers
this afternoon.
.TONIGHT...W winds 25 to 30 kt with gusts up to 40 kt,
diminishing to 20 to 25 kt with gusts up to 30 kt after midnight.
Seas 5 to 7 ft. Wave Detail: W 6 ft at 6 seconds and S 4 ft at
9 seconds.
.WED...W winds around 20 kt with gusts up to 30 kt. Seas 3 to
5 ft. Wave Detail: S 5 ft at 9 seconds and W 4 ft at 5 seconds.
.WED NIGHT...W winds 15 to 20 kt with gusts up to 25 kt. Seas
3 to 5 ft. Wave Detail: S 5 ft at 9 seconds and W 3 ft at
4 seconds.
.THU AND THU NIGHT...NW winds 15 to 20 kt with gusts up to 25 kt.
Seas 3 to 5 ft. Wave Detail: S 4 ft at 9 seconds and W 3 ft at
4 seconds.
.FRI THROUGH SAT...NW winds 15 to 20 kt with gusts up to 25 kt.
Seas 2 to 3 ft. Wave Detail: W 3 ft at 4 seconds and S 1 foot at
9 seconds.
.SAT NIGHT...NW winds 10 to 15 kt with gusts up to 20 kt. Seas
around 2 ft. A chance of rain.

Seas are reported as significant wave height, which is the
average of the highest third of the waves. Individual wave
heights may be more than twice the significant wave height.

$$

ANZ230-120100-
Boston Harbor-
704 AM EST Tue Nov 11 2025

...GALE WARNING IN EFFECT THROUGH THIS EVENING...

.TODAY...W winds 15 to 20 kt with gusts up to 25 kt, increasing
to 20 to 25 kt with gusts up to 35 kt this afternoon. Waves
around 2 ft. A slight chance of flurries this afternoon.
.TONIGHT...W winds 20 to 25 kt, diminishing to 15 to 20 kt after
midnight. Gusts up to 35 kt. Waves around 2 ft.
.WED...SW winds 10 to 15 kt with gusts up to 20 kt. Waves around
2 ft.
.WED NIGHT...W winds 10 to 15 kt. Gusts up to 20 kt in the
evening. Waves around 2 ft in the evening, then 1 foot or less.
.THU AND THU NIGHT...W winds 15 to 20 kt. Waves around 2 ft.
.FRI THROUGH SAT...NW winds 10 to 15 kt with gusts up to 20 kt.
Waves around 2 ft.
.SAT NIGHT...NW winds 10 to 15 kt. Waves around 2 ft. A chance of
rain.

Seas are reported as significant wave height, which is the
average of the highest third of the waves. Individual wave
heights may be more than twice the significant wave height.

$$

ANZ236-120100-
Narragansett Bay-
704 AM EST Tue Nov 11 2025

...GALE WARNING IN EFFECT THROUGH THIS EVENING...

.TODAY...W winds 15 to 20 kt, increasing to 20 to 25 kt this
afternoon. Gusts up to 35 kt. Waves 3 to 5 ft. A slight chance of
showers and flurries this afternoon.
.TONIGHT...W winds 20 to 25 kt, diminishing to 15 to 20 kt after
midnight. Gusts up to 35 kt. Waves 3 to 5 ft.
.WED...W winds 15 to 20 kt with gusts up to 25 kt. Waves 2 to
3 ft.
.WED NIGHT...W winds 10 to 15 kt. Gusts up to 20 kt in the
evening. Waves 2 to 3 ft.
.THU AND THU NIGHT...NW winds 10 to 15 kt with gusts up to 20 kt.
Waves 2 to 3 ft.
.FRI THROUGH SAT...NW winds 10 to 15 kt with gusts up to 20 kt.
Waves 2 to 3 ft.
.SAT NIGHT...NW winds around 10 kt. Waves 1 foot or less. A
chance of rain.

Seas are reported as significant wave height, which is the
average of the highest third of the waves. Individual wave
heights may be more than twice the significant wave height.

$$

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